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 Post subject: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 12:46 am 
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Joined: October 16th, 2009, 11:09 am
Posts: 1091
Location: Mason, Ohio
OK, this may be the 1st thread I've started here and I, full well, expect Dillon to comment. :wink:

I have used a little thingy from Golfworks to pull broken shafts out of heads, but lately it just guts the shaft and leave the outer remnant. I don't know if the graphite has dulled it's bite or what and Golfworks told me to send it back. Tell me in details how you drill a shaft out of the head. I need drill bit sizes, types of bits and how you hold the head if by hand (no comments from the peanut gallery) or otherwise. I have 2 heads sitting here that I don't want to screw up. Both are .350, but I'd like to hear specifics about .335 too.

Thanks in advance.


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 Post subject: Re: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 4:33 am 
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Joined: October 19th, 2009, 2:53 pm
Posts: 1369
Location: Western MA
Landon, I am no expert, but I did remove a broken graphite shaft with a drill bit and this is how I approached it.

1. I started with a drill bit that will fit in what is left of the broken shaft.
2. Next I heated the hosel as if I was going to pull the shaft.
3. Then I heated the drill bit (used heat gun for both).
4. I inserted the bit into what was left of the shaft and twisted by hand.

What happened for me was that the bit caught was left of the shaft and I was able to extract (kind of like extracting a broken screw). I have one of those sand paper hosel cleaners that used to remove the remaining residue:

Image


If that doesn't work or you do not get the whole piece of broken shaft out, gradually increase the size of the drill bit and repeat heating the hosel and drill bits.

I used a "standard" drill bit. Size wise, tough to say as .335 and .350 don't really convert over to drill bit sizes. For the .335", a 8.5 mm bit (if they have it, although Hireko advertises a 8.6 mm bit to use for .335 hosels) would be as big as you would (0.335" = 8.51 mm), if you can't find metric, I wouldn't go an bigger than 10/32" bit. For 0.350", I would use the 8.5 mm bit (a 9 mm bit may fit depending on the tolerances of the hosel) or a 11/32".

Like I said, I am no expert, but this approached worked for me and I would approach it this way again.


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 Post subject: Re: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 5:51 am 
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Joined: October 13th, 2009, 12:28 pm
Posts: 5371
Location: New England
I've done about a half dozen of them and have used yaff's technique of heating first and then increasing the size of the drill bit until I get it out. Sometimes it's been relatively easy and sometimes it's been a real bitch to do.


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 Post subject: Re: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 6:03 am 
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Joined: October 17th, 2009, 8:50 pm
Posts: 2118
Location: northern Ohio
Heat helps and as all have said
start small and work your way up
They slower you go the easier it is
All of the above

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 Post subject: Re: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 9:23 am 
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Joined: October 16th, 2010, 3:01 pm
Posts: 515
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
I agree with all of the above. The problem I've had is getting the glue out of the bottom of the hozel. For that I ground the tip of a letter "R" drill bit, basicly turning it into a .335 end mill. Then I put it in the head stock of my lathe, put it into the hozel, and turn the chuck BY HAND very slowly. It clean the stuck on glue right down to the hozel plug. You could do the same with a varieable speed drill on the slowest setting. Last, I run a steel hozel brush into the hozel the clean off any left over glue on the sides.


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 Post subject: Re: Drilling out a broken shaft
PostPosted: July 26th, 2012, 5:51 pm 
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Joined: November 5th, 2009, 8:43 pm
Posts: 461
OK LB, I'm here.

Better to use a bit for drilling concrete. Drilling graphite causes a lot of friction/heat & will dull a new (regula type)bit faster than anything, and make the drilling job a real pain in the ass. A 3/8 bit will clean out a .350 bore with only a bit of cleanup left. If any stubborn crap is left behind, just heat it with a torch and it will come loose easily. Use the 1/4 bit for the .335 as they don't make anything that would fit that size perfectly(in concrete bits). Then heat the hosel and the remainder is easily removed.
Quickest/easiest ways I've found to do this ugly job.

Don't hold onto the hosel while drilling....it will heat up quite a bit with these bits. The remaining graphite in there will become somewhat brittle from the heat and usually can just be chipped/broken out with an awl or something similar. If not, just heat as above.


Dillon


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